For convenience, many electronic systems are equipped with plug-and-play cables, so connectors are already available to eliminate soldering requirements. Many people think that these pre-connected cables are very useful for saving time and achieving a clean and professional installation. However, these same cables (kabel sleeve) can cause problems when working through engine firewalls, roofs, trim panels and buildings, and exterior walls.
Pre-terminated cables typically have a smaller diameter, but end connectors can sometimes double or quadruple the size of the holes required to route through the ceiling, firewall, and the like. Did I make an oversized hole to compensate for the connector? “Or” Do I cut the cable and want to be able to wind up the cable? ” For me, there is no dilemma, the choice is very simple cut and splicing the cable! After all, it’s easy and the look will be even better. In the case of outdoor installations, it will have greater weather resistance due to its smaller diameter orifice.
Indeed, many people object to cutting and splicing cables (kabel sleeve) because they are worried that matching internal cables is too difficult or it is a failure point. These concerns are disappearing through a little education on how to properly handle and cheap tools. To successfully stitch, simply follow these basic steps:
Tools and supplies
If you are a MacGyver, if you have a problem, you can use a knife and tape, but in the real world and through a permanent installation, other tools are recommended. Today, having the right tools is relatively inexpensive and essential for installing security devices such as LED strips, projectors, and alarms. The recommended tools and supplies are:
- Wire stripper
- Cuts or scissors (some strippers have embedded cuts)
- Heat shrink tubing.
- Heat the gun to reduce heat (can also accept lighters or other heat sources)
- Friendly hands
- Rubber washers (for car mounting).
Step #1 determines the position of the cut and executes.
Before cutting the cable, consider where to cut it. For example, you might want to cut cables in the middle to speed up cabling, or because of the tight tolerances of the extra wiring points, you might need to cut near the end of the cable. In addition, always ensure that the selected cutting position gives you enough working space and corrects possible welding errors. In general, I recommend cutting less than 4 inches from the end of the cable or at the point of decompression.
Step 2 insulated cables and wires
For most cables, I recommend stripping the cable insulation (main cover) at least one inch to facilitate soldering and reinsertion of the internal cable. The internal cable must be bare enough for proper soldering, typically a quarter of an inch.
Step 3: Pre and Tin Yarn
In order to prepare each cable, I prefer to twist the braided cables to adjust and smooth them. This facilitates the use of cables and allows for better solder adhesion. Some cables, such as communication or video cables, may have external shielding to minimize RF interference and provide dual grounding. In addition to coaxial cables that must not be spliced, this protection must be prepared like other twisted cables to tighten the wires. Once the cable is ready, apply a layer of solder to the iron and thread the cable through the counter. The end result must be silver plated at each end of the cable.
Step #4 applies heat shrink.
Always use all heat shrink products before welding. For most cables, you will need at least two sizes of heat shrink, one for the entire cable, and a smaller for each cable. Another important approach is to mount the heat shrink device on the ground wire even if there is no insulation at first. Even the best solder joints produce slight defects, and the heat shrink tubing on the seal helps reduce the risk of shorting to other cables.
Step 5: Weld seals
If your wire ends are tinned, it is easy to make solder joints and only one small weld is required in the welder. When making connections, be sure to route the flexible cables to minimize the formation of uneven edges. If you are forming an edge, just use a pair of slits or side knives to cut them.
Step #6 uses a heat shrinkable insulated joint.
Once you are satisfied with the solder joint, slide the pre-positioned heat toward the seal. When applying a heat source to heat shrinking, be sure to shrink the new insulation with as little heat as possible, as excessive heat can loosen or break the solder joint. Once heat shrinkage is applied, the problematic joint becomes invisible. Again, use as little heat as possible.
Step 7 Test your connector and go!
It is always a good idea to try before using a spliced cable or continuing wiring. To do this, use the continuity tester from most multimeters. In continuity mode, simply place the test probe on both ends of the cable. If the meter sounds an audible alarm, it should sound when the test probe touches the end of the cable, indicating continuity is normal. To fully test your installation, you must also check for short circuits. When the meter is in continuity mode, select one end of the cable and place the test probe in multiple leads. If the connection is successful, you should not hear any audible alarms that do not detect a short circuit.